How to Shave
How to shave - A question that gets asked a lot. Which direction, up down or across?
To go against the grain or not, that’s one of the oldest shaving debates around. There are two schools of thought. Some say shaving with the grain - that is, in the same direction your hair grows - is better for your skin, reducing irritation, razor burn and ingrown hairs. This is especially true for guys with coarse or curly hair, who might find shaving against the grain uncomfortable or even painful.
Others argue that shaving against the grain is worth the effort. Sure, it takes more care and attention, but the result is often a much closer and smoother shave.
At the end of the day, it’s your call. But if you’re here, chances are you want to know how to shave without wrecking your face. Good news, here’s how to do it properly.
Step one, First thing’s first
Establish the direction of your hair growth. To shave with, across or against the grain, you need to know the direction of the grain. And how do you do that? The hair on your face grows differently depending on the area, but it’s easy enough to find the various directions of hair growth. Rub your hand back and forth across the shaving areas of your face and whenever you feel resistance, that’s going against the grain. Otherwise let your bristles grow a bit longer to reveal the grain, if you are not sure.
# First Pass (With the Grain):
Lather up. This pass focuses on removing the bulk of the hair and is the safest and least irritating pass. Use gentle strokes with the grain, in the same direction of your hair growth. Apply minimal pressure and rinse the razor frequently to remove hair and lather.
# Second Pass (Across the Grain):
Lather up again. This pass helps to cut hair closer to the skin by shaving perpendicular to the hair growth. Use short, slightly overlapping strokes. Again applying minimal pressure and rinse the razor frequently to remove hair and lather. For many, myself included, this pass is sufficient and most stop after the second pass.
# Optional Third Pass (Across the Grain):
Lather up once more. If you still feel stubble or want that ultra-smooth finish, some suggest going completely against the grain. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend that unless your skin handles shaving well. If you must, rather repeat the second pass across the grain again. It gives a closer result without pushing your skin too far.
My Take
I personally stop at two passes, with and across the grain. That’s my sweet spot between having a smooth shave and without punishing my skin. But everyone’s different, different strokes for different okes. If your skin can handle a third pass, go for it. Just take it easy, keep your technique solid and listen to your face. Your shave, your face, your rules.
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